The most important consideration in post-planting care is watering. The majority of plants which die, die because they are either under-watered or over-watered. There is no way to prepare a generic set of watering instructions which covers every planting situation. This is because there are too many variables to each planting and each set of variables requires a slightly different modification in how to most effectively water for the given planting situation. This variability even extends to different plants within the same property.

Neither our valued customer nor ourselves want a plant to die. Both take pride in growing a beautiful plant and appreciate the long term value they bring into our lives both aesthetically and monetarily. Because of a plant’s critical need for effective watering and the resultant outcome and impact when it does not occur, we have prepared this expanded, supplemental Post-Planting Care Guideline to assist the homeowner in better understanding the issue from an overall standpoint. It is an extension of our regular planting guidelines and presents many of the reasons we recommend planting in the manner we do.

An Overview of Watering

Why is Effective Watering so Difficult?

Rapid establishment and the long term growth of trees and shrubs is dependent upon the root system. Therefore, when planting every advantage must be provided for the growth and regeneration of the roots.

When planting there may be extreme differences in the texture, compaction and organic matter between the soil of the plant, the existing soil and the back fill material. This difference causes an effect called hydrologic discontinuity to occur. Water does not readily penetrate the interface of heterogeneous media until saturation of one medium is reached and surface tension forces are overcome. When there are major differences between the site soil, the back fill and the medium the plant is growing in these extremes often result in the acute stress or sudden death of newly transplanted trees and shrubs. This is a key reason why amending and/or fertilizing the back fill is not recommended. Doing so adds a third adjacent soil to contend with (versus two).

In an attempt to explain, the porosity of a soil determines how easily it will give up its water. A saturated medium will give up moisture the most easily. Sandy soil is the most porous and will take and give up moisture the quickest. Good black soil could be considered medium and will give up and take water at a medium rate. Clay soil is the least porous and takes and gives up water the slowest. When the plant planted has been grown in a coarse (porous) mix the roots have trouble pulling water from the surrounding back fill and/or existing soil. That is why often the surrounding soil seems to be moist and adequate, however the medium around the plant is very dry. Even though moist it is not moist enough to overcome the moisture tension between itself and the medium the plant has been grown in. Looked at another way, the more compact the soil the more surface tension there is (unwillingness to give up moisture) The converse of this can also occur. Newly planted material can succumb to root suffocation caused by poorly drained soil pits.

When looked at in this manner one can easily see the possible permutations which can occur when multiple, dissimilar soils exist within the planting area.

Why Water is Critical To a Plant

Water is the most limited essential resource for plant survival and growth. Water shortages severely damage young and old plants alike. Lack of water can also setup healthy trees for other problems such as tree decline, pest problems and nonrecoverable damage.

Plants need between one inch and three inches of water per week distributed through watering or rain during normal temperatures. The amount will depend upon the soil type.

The small, water-absorbing roots of plants are easily damaged during transplanting. For sufficient water uptake to occur the root ball of a newly planted tree, shrub or evergreen must be kept moist, but not saturated, and it must not dry out.

Key Variables in Establishing Water Needs

For every 18 degrees change in the temperature the amount of water lost by a tree almost doubles. Therefore it is critical to factor temperature into plant watering requirements.

Trees surrounded by pavement or other hot surfaces can be 20 to 30 degrees warmer than trees in protected backyard locations.

Trees constantly lose water to the atmosphere.

The Principles of Effective Watering

Understanding How to Water

The majority of the plants’ absorbing roots are in the top 12 inches of the soil.

Water does not move sideways in a soil, it moves downward. You should top water and apply the water directly over where you need water in the soil. Surface watering allows the greatest chance for a plant to absorb water, helps maintain soil health, and helps essential element cycling and transformations in the soil.

The best way to water trees is by soaker hose or trickle (drip) irrigation.

Less frequent and deeper watering from the surface is more beneficial than light watering. Deep watering by sticking a pipe or wand into the soil 18-24 inches is not as good for trees as surface applications for this reason. Below 24 inches misses the active roots.

One half gallon (.5) of water per square foot equals approximately one gallon of water per square foot. To extrapolate, if the area needing to be watered is approximately one square yard (the area one would want to water if they were to plant a 2 inch balled and burlapped tree), then one would need to slowly apply approximately 15 gallons of water evenly over the surface area every week under normal weather circumstances, with normal soil conditions. The area to be watered calculation allows for watering a small amount of area outside the diameter of the plant hole as the edges of the soil buttressing up against the refilled plant hole should also be watered to encourage root growth in the surrounding soil.

Testing for Drainage

Dig a hole where the plant is to go and fill it with water. Allow the water to stand for 24 hours. If the water has not completely drained from the hole in that period, then special planting and watering procedures may be necessary.

Key Variables Affecting the Amount of Water Needed

Soil texture is a primary determinant as to how much water a plant will need. The size of the root ball plus the size of the planting hole is a primary determinant as to how much water a plant will need. Heavy clay soils severely restrict the movement of water and commonly lead to saturated conditions. In areas with high levels of clay or silt (finely textured soils) newly planted trees should receive no more than 1 inch of surface water per week during the growing season. Supplemental watering is not necessary during periods of adequate rainfall.

Sandy soils drain more easily, therefore up to 3 inches of water per week may be necessary to keep the soil moist. Carefully monitor the moisture level in the root balls of evergreen and trees which are planted in sandy soils. Water does not drain easily from the fine textured soil of the root ball into the surrounding sandy soil. Therefore the root ball may become saturated.

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Placing the Plant in the Hole

Carefully place the plant in the hole. This is extremely imortant when planting larger trees as you don’t want to tear the fiber roots away from the plant. When placed, the original growing level should be 1″-2″ above the level of the ground (as stated above).

If the plant is bare root, remove any damaged or diseased roots with clean, sharp pruning shears, create a mound in the middle of hole and spread the roots out over and around it, and do not trim the top of the plant as this will reduce the growth of new roots.

If the plant is container grown, ease the pot off without disturbing the plant. If there are any circling roots cleanly cut them on all four sides from top to bottom with a sharp knife to insure they will not eventually girdle the trunk. (You can return the container to Country Arbors and we’ll recycle it if you don’t have another use for it.)

If the plant is balled and burlapped, remove all rope and twine from around the trunk of the tree. Do not remove the burlap from the ball. We only use an untreated, lightweight grade of burlap which will quickly decay). Where plastic burlap has been used it will have to be pulled down to the bottom of the ball as this is a material which does not decompose naturally. This means that if a wire basket has been used it will have to be removed, which is not recommended. If a wire basket has been used, be sure to cut off or bend back the top to the point it will not interfere with raking and cultivation.

In all cases straighten the plant in the hole. This is also the time to make sure all tags, wires and ropes which might be on the stems or trunk are removed. These items can girdle and kill the plant as it grows.

Back filling the Hole

When back filling the hole, use the soil that came out of the hole, do not amend the soil. The reason you should not amend the soil is due to a phenomena known as hydrologic discontinuity which affects the ability of the plant to absorb water. This issue is explained in the Post-Planting Care Instructions. Fill the hole about one third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the bottom of the plants or roots. Packing the soil too hard can reduce the soil pores and cause compacting. Place a hose in the hole and let it trickle water into the hole as you’re doing this to eliminate air pockets and rehydrate the soil. Add the soil a few inches at a time and settle it with water. Continue this process until the tree is firmly planted to ground level. Make sure you do not pile the extra, displaced soil against the trunk of the plant. Doing this limits the plant’s ability to absorb oxygen.

At this time build a moat around the plant (this is where the extra, displaced soil goes and serves a useful purpose). The normal rule of thumb is to build it on the undisturbed soil around the edge of the planting hole. The size of the moat wall should be four to six inches tall and equally as wide. As an example, if you are planting a two inch balled and burlapped tree you would build the moat out about 30 inches from the trunk and about 4 inches high. The purpose for the moat is to hold mulch and direct the water when watering. The larger the mulch ring the better protection and moisture retention capacity.

Mulching the Plant

After the plant is properly planted and the moat has been constructed, put a two to four inch layer around the tree (in the moat area) depending upon the size of the plant. Mulching serves many purposes. Among the most important are moisture retention, root insulation and protection from heat and cold extremes. Research has shown mulching enables a plant to nearly double plant growth in the first few years after planting. Additional benefits are aesthetics, grass and weed competition and protection from mowers and weed trimmers. Mechanical damage is one of the leading causes of injury and death to landscape plants. Do not put more than this as any more than four inches may cause a problem with gas exchange and small rodents choosing to make their home in it (and eating the roots of the plant) during the winter months. Leave the bark about one to two inches back (away) from the trunk of the plant. Do not put the bark around the trunk as this may cause the bark to decay. We do not recommend placing a landscape fabric under the mulch (and most certainly not black plastic as it keeps water away from the plant) for weed control as although it will control annual weeds, it is ineffective against perennial weeds. A better control would be use a pre-emergent herbicide. If one chooses to use a pre-emergent put it on top of the mulch, not on the soil with the mulch on top of it. Putting it on top keeps any seeds which blow in from germinating.

Acceptable mulches are wood chips, wood shavings, bark or equivalent materials. We recommend using a premium quality shredded hardwood bark as it is coarse-textured and provides excellent water retention, aeration of the soil, and replenishes soil nutrients as it decomposes.

It should be pointed out that heavy mulching of plants planted in poorly drained or wet areas can be a problem. In wet areas the mulch can keep the moisture at high levels for extended periods thereby causing root die back. In dry situations the surplus of moisture in the bark can cause the roots to grow upward into the mulching material and when the mulch dries out, the roots will dry out, thereby causing them to die. For these reasons we do not recommend mulching if either of these situations exist.

Do Not Apply Fertilizer or Amendments at the Time of Planting

Do not add organic matter, fertilizer or other soil amendments. Do not place gravel in the bottom of the planting area. These amendments can cause problems with soil and root growth. Soil amendments negatively impact the performance of the tree as described above. The reason most nurserymen don’t recommend fertilizing is because most native soils contain sufficient levels of available nutrients to supply the requirements of newly planted material. Also, nitrogen fertilizers promote shoot growth versus root growth, where the re-establishment of the root system is required before the plant can adequately support new top growth.

When to Stake a Tree

Plants do not generally need staking. The should only be staked when necessary. Studies have shown trees will establish more quickly and develop stronger trunks and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. The most common reason for staking is if windy conditions are continually prevalent at the planting location. Without staking, trees or evergreens with large heads will blow over. If this situation exists then it might be necessary to stake the plant to insure its survival. If staking is necessary for support, we recommend using a two stake system with a wide, flexible tie material which will minimize trunk damage (see diagram).

You have now selected plants which are correct for the location they are going into and aesthetically correct and pleasing to you personally, and have properly planted them according to the needs of their new location as well as the needs of the plant itself. From this point on the performance (or nonperformance) of the plant will depend upon the post-planting care it receives (or doesn’t receive). This subject is presented in Country Arbors Planting Guidelines: Part III: Post-Planting Care Guidelines.

Planting Guidelines Part II: Plant Installation Guidelines - Last Update: 09.01.03-6

The first key issue in ensuring a plant lives and grows at its maximum potential is to plant it correctly. Our recommended planting procedures are based on our years of research, experimentation and the results (and non-results or negative results) obtained from various planting methods. Our family has been successfully planting trees in this area for the past 138 years and what we recommend is what we currently find to result in the best performance of the plant in the customers landscaping from the date of planting onward.

Pre-Planting Care

Plant The Plant Immediately When You Buy It

Homeowners should plant plants as soon as possible after buying them. Plants require an extensive amount of care during the timeframe between harvesting and planting. They must be protected from drying and overheating, given varying levels of shade, handled in a specific manner, watered in a specific manner, etc. to insure they remain viable when they are to be planted. Let Country Arbors do this, that’s one of the services we provide. You can always make arrangements to have whatever stock it is you need available when you need it. This way you ensure the material you receive is viable at the time of planting.

Prepare the Planting Site Prior to Planting

The planting site should be clean at the time of planting. All competing non-desired vegetation should be removed. There are several methods by which this can be done.

• Multiple Tilling
• Kills non-desired small vegetation over time
• Requires 2-4 tillings over a couple of months

• Opaque Plastic Sheeting
• Kills non-desired small vegetation in 20-30 Days
• Stake down the plastic over area a month before planting

• Hand Weeding
• Ready for planting immediately
• Hard work and time intensive

• Stripping (sod only)
• Mechanical means is quickest, easiest
• Hand stripping is hard, time consuming
  

• Herbicides
  
  • Kills non-desired vegetation in approximately 10 days
    
  • Extremely important that manufacturers directions are followed
    

Preparing the Planting Hole

The Importance of Planting a Tree Correctly

Planting day is here. The plants have been chosen at the nursery, the locations selected, the ground prepared and the truck just arrived at your house (or you brought it home yourself if you’re really ready to get going). Now the work is to begin, the plants have to be planted. Before addressing the issue of how to plant the material, let’s take a look at why proper planting is so important. A 2″ BB tree will leave behind 90%-95% of its absorbing root surface at the nursery when it is dug. More important however is that it brought the bulk of its weight and all its stored sugar which will fuel the new root growth which will will replace the old, removed root growth. That’s the reason the majority of all balled and burlapped plants survive when they leave the nursery if they are given any type of decent follow-up. A beautiful 5 gallon shrub will bring all its reserves and the absorbing root system with it so there won’t be any lag time relative to root replacement. There’s another issue however. Most container grown plants are grown in a soil substrate mix (which may or may not contain soil), and these mixes often cause problems. Artificial mixes such as bark often very light and the roots don’t adhere well to the mix. When the plant is planted it is very easy to “shake down” the plant until it more resembles a bare root plant than a container grown one. When it’s too heavy it’s very difficult to address a matted root situation. The key point is these plants are vigorous, growing and ready and willing to keep doing so. However in order to do so they must be planted in a manner which maintains their current vitality and provides them with the opportunity to continue to grow at their maximum capacity. Their ability to do this will depend upon two things, how well the plant is planted relative to the needs of its new location and the care the plant receives after planting.

The Shape and Width of the Hole

The planting hole should be tapered, two to three times the size of the plants ball or root spread at the top and only slightly wider at the base of the plant. This is because most root growth occurs in the upper 12 inches of soil so the planting area needs to be shallow and wide to accommodate the development of the fibrous roots (these new roots must push through the soil). If the hole is not adequate for this root growth there will not be enough loosened soil for this fibrous root growth development. In a stricter sense, the soil volume needed for healthy root growth depends upon the species, mature size, life span and stress factors. At a minimum, the hole needs to be at least one and one half times the size of the ball to enable it to be properly set.

The Depth of the Hole

The bottom of the hole should be I” to 2″ less than the depth of the ball being planted. Otherwise, the top of the roots or root ball should be I” to 2″ above the surface of the ground from its original growing level. The most common way of identifying this level is to look at the trunk flare (The point where the trunk ends and root development begins), that’s the original growing level. The bottom plant should sit on untouched soil, not amended soil. Amended soil compacts over time and will result in the plant being planted too deep. As stated earlier most of the plants roots will develop in the top 12″ of soil, if a plant is planted too deep it will have difficulty developing due to a lack of oxygen.

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1. Dig the hole 10″ to 12″ larger than the diameter of the container. Dig the depth of the hole so that when the plant is placed in the hole it is is even with the surface level of the ground. If your soil is poorly drained dig the hole so that when the plant is placed in the hole the top of the soil in the container is elevated above the surface level of the ground by one half to one inch.
2. Remove the pot from the container by gently tapping several times around the outside of it, laying it on its side, then gently pulling it out of the container. If necessary, press down on the top of the container to loosen and remove it.
3. If the roots are circling the pot, gently cut them on four sides with a sharp knife. Place the plant in the hole, fill the hole half full with the excavated soil. Put a hose on slow trickle, water the soil and work it to remove any air pockets. Fill the rest of the hole with soil, water and work it in the same manner.
4. Straighten the plant if required and re-compact the soil around the plant by using your feet (walk around the trunk in a circular manner). The plant should not be staked unless it is loose or has a large top mass and has been planted in a windy location where it might be blown over.
5. On larger plants, build a small moat around the plant at the point where the existing soil meets the back fill soil. Depending upon the size of the plant, a two to four inch wall will suffice.
6. Mulch the plant with a three inch layer of premium shredded hardwood bark. Minimally, place the mulch in the moat, however mulching further out is better in that it will assist in retaining water over a broader area.

Balled and Burlapped Trees, Shrubs and Evergreens

7. Dig the hole a minimum of 8″ to 12″ larger than the diameter of the ball to be planted. Dig the depth of the hole so that when the plant is placed in it, the plant will be elevated approximately two to three inches (one to two inches for shrubs). Do not dig the hole deeper, do not place back filled soil in the bottom of the hole (you do not want the plant to settle in deeper at a later date). The planting depth is critical. When planting in a heavy clay soil the ball should be raised 4″ to 8″ depending upon how heavy the clay is.
8. Carefully and gently place the plant in the hole so as not to tear the roots away from the tree. Make sure it is elevated to the proper level as described in point one above.
9. Make sure the plant is straight, check the elevation of the plant to see it is correct. Fill the hole with the excavated soil to about a third of the way to set it. Do not amend the soil with any type of amendment.
10. Gently remove any twine, rope or burlap wrapped around the trunk of the tree. Remove any tags, twine or marking tape from the top of the tree at the same time. If a plant has been harvested in a wire cage, do not remove the wire cage. If the tree has a wire cage, gently remove the rope that has been used to tie the wire cage to the trunk of the tree. Do not loosen, remove or pull back the burlap on the ball. Bend the prongs of the wire basket downward to prevent them from sticking out of the ground.
11. Recheck to see the plant is still straight in the hole. Put a hose on slow trickle, water the first third of the soil which is in the hole and work it to remove any air pockets. Fill the second third of the hole and do the same. Fill the balance of the hole and do the same.
12. Build a moat around the plant at the point where the existing soil meets the back fill soil. Depending upon the size of the plant, a four to six inch wall will suffice.
13. Mulch the plant with a three inch layer of premium shredded hardwood bark. Minimally, place the mulch in the moat, however mulching further out is better in that it will assist in retaining water over a broader area.

Homeowner Planting Guidelines - Last Update: 09.01 .O3

The Season For Planting

In todays nursery market trees and shrubs are planted from early spring through late fall. Improvements in production technology and improved plant care knowledge have realistically about transformed our industry into a year around business. Generally speaking, spring, summer and fall are all good times to plant while winter is not. The key to successful planting at a given time is in understanding the nature of the given product item you are dealing with, how it has been grown and/or processed and its’ specific care needs when it is planted at a given time of the year. The best way to understand when something can be planted (and the associated risk of planting a product processed in a specific manner at that time) is to ask a knowledgeable nurseryman with extensive experience. As it is within any industry or discipline, any forward thinking, individual will constantly strive to improve their ability to deliver the highest level of quality at the most competitive price, at the right time to the customer. When they give you advice and a recommendation it will be based on a combination study and experimentation within their marketplace and will represent what they have found works best for the given situation and timeframe. We at Country Arbors suggest you contact us to discuss your planting needs and objectives and then at that point we can assist you in effectively accomplishing these needs.

Where To Plant

After the decision is made to plant, the first decision made must be where to plant it. The primary objective of planting a plant is enhance and beautify your landscaping. To best assure this is accomplished one needs to plant the plant where its opportunity for growth won’t be impeded by lack of sunlight, soil drainage problems, overhead or underground utilities, buildings or other obstacles. One first must know what the natural mature size of a given plant is, then select a site which will allow the plant to grow to its mature size without impeding upon other items or structures. As a general rule large landscape-sized trees should be planted a minimum of 15 feet away from obstructions and shrubs should be planted a minimum of 5 feet away. Plants enhance the beauty of your landscape and increase the value of your property; therefore there is nothing sadder than, after years of developing it’s natural beauty, one has to remove the plant or alter its beauty through severe trimming only because the initial decision of where to plant it was not well thought through.

Ensuring Livability

The next series of decisions are to insure the plant is provided with the best possible opportunity to grow. All growing things grow best when placed in the most conducive growing environment. Realistically it is impossible to provide every plant the “perfect” location. This is due to many reasons, the main one being each plant has its own set of needs, many of them extensively different. Providing such a location would result in the use of a very limited selection of plants when the area of use is restricted to the typical average home acreage, its geographical location, etc. Fortunately plants are very versatile and most can adopt to a range of conditions. Otherwise, usually it’s more in assuring one is planting in conditions containing no extremes than it is assuring perfection. Some of the other major considerations of importance are:

Environmental:

• Soil Type (Quality Of)
• Water (Quantity, Quality, Run Off)
• Light (Intensity, Duration)
• Temperature (Sheltered Area vs. Open Area)
• Wind (Sheltered Area vs. Open Area)
• Lay Of The Land (Elevation and Slope)
• Existing Vegetation (Existing Canopies, Roots, Etc.)

Hardiness

• Cold and Heat Tolerance
• Water and Drought Tolerance
• Soil Tolerance

Functionality

• Mature Size
• Growth Rate
• Longevity
• Disease Resistance

Identifying Your Planting Objectives

Common Objectives

All plants are planted with an objective in mind. All though wide-ranging and diverse, some of the most common objectives are:

Aesthetic Objectives

• Form
• Texture
• Color
• Flowering Habit

Ease of Care Objectives

• Minimum Care versus High Maintenance

Longevity and Growth Objectives

• Short Lived versus Long Lived
• Plant Hardiness
• Rate Of Growth

Understanding the Types of Planting Stock

Most plants are sold in one of three common forms of packaging. The type of packaging used is normally a reflection of the size of the plant being sold (Though not always).

These methods and some of the benefits and considerations of each are:

Balled and Burlapped (Hand or Spade Dug)

• Used For Larger Specimen Plants
• Retains More Root Mass

Container Grown

• Used for Shrubbery, Smaller Trees
• Longer Planting Season
• Greater Shipping Flexibility
• Less Transplanting Shock
• The Cash and Carry Norm

Bare Root

• Used for Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Fruits, Etc.
• Typically smaller sized material
• Typically easy-to-move items
• Low Cost
• Short (Spring) Planting Season

Once one has given consideration to the various needs and objectives presented above they will have taken the first step towards choosing plants which will best satisfy their needs and will know they have been chosen in a manner which will ensure they will perform to their maximum potential.

We at Country Arbors stand ready to assist you in understanding the features of any given plant, the locations where it will and won’t work, when it should be planted and the level of risk relative to livability and performance the plant has at the time of planting.

Planting Guidelines Part I: Pre-Planting Considerations - Last Update: 09.01.03 - 4

Amount of Water Needed

01. A plant needs 1 to 3 inches of water per week to grow successfully. One half (.5) gallon of water per square foot equals one inch per square foot.

Variables Which Determine Water Need

01. The type of soil determines the amount of water which needs to be applied.

02. The size of the plant will determine the surface area which needs to be watered. The water need is calculated by multiplying the multiplier times the square footage which needs to be watered. An example of the square footage for a given plant size is shown below.

FOR THE FARM, GARDEN AND THE FIRESIDE

Volume XXXV - No. 901 - Albany, N.Y. April 28, 1870

Page 261:
OUR ILLINOIS LETTER. CHAMPAIGN CO., APRIL 20, 1870
The warm weather of the first part of the month closed in a general thunder storm on the 14th, and then pretty extensive, though not heavy rains followed. These ended in a snow storm, the twenty-second of the season, which fell to the depth of between two and three inches on the night of the 15th. There was quite a freeze Saturday night, but corn and beans, both up, came through the trial untouched, and I have therefore no fears of the fruit buds. Not even the peaches are in bloom hereabouts, and it is fully two weeks to a general flowering, the snow storm and raw weather having greatly retarded vegetation. For a day or two, the engine of the weather appears to be “standing on its centre,” as the machinists say, for it is neither cold nor hot, and it is evident a small influence would give a brisk movement either way.

Page 262:
SILENE PENDULA — var. ruberrima
This is a newly introduced bloomer, the whole plant presenting a remarkable appearance, the flowers of a bright carmine rose; the branches, instead of being green, are of a brownish red which spreads over the leaves and calyx, giving the whole a striking aspect, quite different from that of the old Silene pendula. NORTHERN ILLINOIS HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY

Page 265:
PRACTICAL PHILOSOPHY
Farmers have the credit of doing their fair share of the grumbling that goes on under the sun, and it is pleasant to receive, as we so often do, evidences of the satisfaction their pursuit under good management is capable of yielding. A subscriber in Chester Co., Penn., (he lives, it is true, in a region where contentment ought not to be a very difficult task) says: After 28 years experience as a hard working practical farmer, taking an interest in everything that relates to progressive agriculture, I have no lingering regrets as to the past, (except so far as I have make mistakes,) and earnest hopes for the future. I have been quite successful in bringing a worn down farm up to a high state of fertility, by a way that many people do not love, that is, by hard work, and by adopting the motto that nothing can labor without it is fed. I have fed my land, fed well my stock, my fruit trees - and they in turn have all fed me. I hear others complaining of hard times, scarcity of money, &c., but the past year with me has been as prosperous as I could wish, with a mixed husbandry.

Page 267:
The Fireside
GARDENING FOR THE LADIES
At this season we must work vigorously to keep up a supply of “Bedding-out Plants.” Those of our readers who have Fortunatus’ purse, can easily supply all their wants. The florists offer great varieties, and the prices are low. Cities and towns are filled with green houses, cultivated upon the most approved methods. We were just looking over a new catalogue, from the Innisfallen Greenhouses at Pittsfield, Mass., which offers rare inducements to purchasers. Its superintendent being a pupil of the “Prince of Floriculture,” Peter Henderson, knows how to supply his customers with the “rich and rare,” and his prices are befitting the fall in gold. In geraniums and pelargoniums there is a wide choice. The variegated-leaved species are the most popular plants now cultivated, and though their flowers are not as beautiful as those of the Zonale tribes, their leaves are so perfectly shaped and marked that they can be substituted for flowers in arranging bouquets, baskets and vases. Mrs. Pollock has had a world-wide reputation, and is now likely to be superseded by Lady Cullum, which can be purchased for 50 cts. Italia Unita possesses a bright carmine zone on each leaf and is decidedly a desirable “novelty.” Silver Pheasant is perfectly margined with white and carmine - its flowers a rosy pink. Mountain of Snow is greatly admired, and a 25 currency can obtain it. The Zonale or Horse-Shoe geraniums will flower from May until frost, and cannot be excelled for brilliancy of coloring and loveliness. Andrew Henderson has rich rosy pink flowers with yellow centre; Incomparable possesses flowers striped like a carnation; it is of a salmon pink, stripped with white, and 30 cts. is all that is asked for it. The Lilliputian Zonale geraniums are, as their name denotes, of a dwarf species - often a plant is seen not over six inches in height, and filled with immense trusses of flowers fully equal in size to their larger sisters; Baby Boy is a dazzling scarlet with a white eye; Little Dear, a lovely rose color with white spots; Cupid, a rich salmon color with white centre; Little Gem, a brilliant vermillion; all these varieties are only 25 cents each, and can be sent by mail. We who love flowers so dearly, owe a debt of gratitude to the government which allows us to transmit and receive them by mail so cheaply. Expressage is very high; many of us are dwellers remote from the centres of civilization, but the friendly mailbags will bring the perfect flowers, free gratis, nearly to our doors. All the florists offer to send packages in amounts not less than $1, free. Eight cents per pound is the charge for plants, cuttings and seeds, sent by mail. We can receive a dozen verbenas for $1. Think of the blaze of glory that one hundred cents thus invested will bestow, not only upon ourselves, but upon all our friends and visitors! Let us beg “Lou Lightheart” to brighten her surroundings in this manner. By sending $5 to any florist, she can procure at least forty to fifty most desirable plants for summer and winter blooming, allowing him to make his own selection. The “special selections” which are offered to us are excessively cheap, and every lover of flowers will find it a far better way to secure a fine display, than by selecting at random from the catalogues.

Every tree, shrub or plant that produces buds, can be propagated by cuttings; each bud contains the germ of a new plant, and if taken from the parent stem and properly cultivated, it can be made to produce roots, stems, leaves and flowers. Loudon says: “If the trunk of a tree is lopped, and all its existing buds destroyed, there will be protruded from between the wood and bark a sort of protuberant lip or ring, formed from the proper juice, and from which there will spring a number of young shoots. The formation of the root in the case of the slip or cutting, is effected in the same manner-the moisture of the soil encouraging the protrusion of buds at and near the section, and the bud that would have been converted into a root below. This explains the science of the thing, and teaches us that a bud must either be buried in the ground, or kept in water, to produce the desired results. Cuttings will strike more quickly if taken from a part of the plant which is in full growth, but the lower extremity of it should not be too soft, else it will absorb too much moisture, and it will decay. A junction of the old and new wood is the most desirable. They should also be cut off just below a bud, as they only form roots from buds; and if a bud is not left close at the end, it will not be as likely to flourish. The tender herbaceous and watery-stemmed plants, require more care than the hardy shrubs and perennials. Verbenas, heliotropes, feverfews, fuchsias, and most kinds of geraniums, will strike root readily in glass vials, filled with soft water and hung up at the window by twine tied round the neck of the vials. If the sun shines very hot all day, the vials must be looked at, and their position changed, lest the water should become too much heated and burn them; but in April and May the sun is rarely hot enough to effect this. As soon as the roots are one inch long, transplant into pots. A certain degree of heat, shade and moisture is requisite to enable cuttings to strike root. Shade is necessary for at least two days. A glass covering makes them grow rapidly, it acts like a miniature hot-bed, and retains all the moisture. Broken tumblers are greatly in demand when we plant our cuttings. All leaves except four or five at the top, should be carefully cut off-if the cutting is small, leave only two. We use the common red pottery, and fill the pots two-thirds full with as rich earth as we can procure, having first baked it in the oven to kill all vermin and larvae. Press the soil firmly into the pot, then fill in one inch of pure sand - house scouring sand will do, if no other is obtainable. Wet the sand thoroughly, insert the prepared cuttings as close to the edge of the pot as possible, and a little more than an inch apart - press the soil around each with thumb and fingers - half the victory lies in this firm planting. Unless the soil is thus treated many of your cuttings will fail. Press the glass over all, and set in the dark for a day or two; then place as close to the window as possible; keep well watered, and give all the sun and air that can be had. If the day is warm let down the window at the top. Soon the cuttings will shed a leaf or more, that will show you that the bud is forming into roots, and will soon develop leaves, then flowers. This process of raising plants by cuttings is simple in the extreme, and we take great delight in plants thus procured. We associate them with the kindly giver who bestowed upon us the cutting; we rejoice in them as the result of our care and culture. Try it, dear reader, raise a few plants from seeds or cuttings up to perfect fruition, and it will be impossible not to love them. They in their turn will bestow upon you a new and innocent pleasure which neither boundless wealth nor power can procure, for–
‘There’s not a flower
But shows some touch of freckle, streak or stain
of His unrivaled pencil. He inspires
Their balmy odors, and imparts their hues, And fills their cups with nectar.” — S.O.J.

Page 268
RECORD OF THE TIMES
The Weather, Crops and Prices
Illinois-Lockport, Will Co., April 16 - Rather a rough spring until about the 6th; since then very fine, and farmers have improved the time. Small grain is nearly in, cherry and peach blossoms almost ready to burst - and prospects good for a fruitful season. Stock wintered well, and if the present genial weather continues they will soon be transferred fiom winter quarters to the green fields.

Historical Horticulture © 2004-2005

Have you ever gone back 100 plus years and read articles written on various areas within horticulture? It’s exciting to see how much has changed as well as how much has not changed.

Most avid gardeners are constantly reading various gardening books on the subject of their interest to become more knowledgeable within that area. As with any interest, having a perspective of the history behind the specific interest can make for an even more enjoyable adventure.

This portion of our online presence began in a rather strange way. As a nurseryman it’s understood one has to continuously read a multitude of books, articles, etc. to keep abreast of the industry. The development of this page was driven by a hobby spilling over into an occupation and vice versa. As an avid reader with a preference towards history and a collector of books, periodicals and other historical records, many of them are in the area of horticulture.

These articles have provided me with so much personal enjoyment and elightenment I thought other avid gardeners might find them similiarly interesting. As they’re certainly not in the mainstream media of today they provide for refreshing reading. I hope you enjoy them as much as I have.

If you enjoy these reprints and want us to continue to compile them let us know through an email. Also, if you’d like to see any specific type of information, let us know and we’ll see what we can do.

Addendum 08.05.04: Those of you who enjoy and read these articles have noticed, as it is working out, not all the articles being added specifically pertain to horticulture. This may be attributed to the authors sense of humor, when reading old newspapers and articles some things are so interesting they have to be shared regardless.

• THE CULTIVATOR & COUNTRY GENTLEMAN - Volume XXXV - No. 901. Albany, N.Y., April 28, 1870
• THE GRAND PRAIRIE REVIEW - Volume 4, Number 3, Whole Number 153, Onarga, IL., January 23, 1869
• THE GRAND PRAIRIE REVIEW - Volume 4, Number 4, Whole Number 154, Onarga, IL., January 30, 1869
• THE GRAND PRAIRIE REVIEW - Volume 4, Number 5, Whole Number 155, Onarga, IL., February 06, 1869
• THE GRAND PRAIRIE REVIEW - Volume 4, Number 5, Whole Number 156, Onarga, IL., January 23, 1869

How Much Mulch Do I Need?

Proper Watering

Overwatering and underwatering are most common causes of plant death. The guides below should help you get it right.

• A Quick Summary To Establish A Plants Water Needs
• A Comprehensive Watering Guideline

Proper planting

• Pre-Planting Guidelines
• A Quick Summary Of Planting
• Planting Guidelines
• Post-Planting Guidelines

Take it with a grain of salt

There are as many opinions about proper gardening as there are gardeners. Our gardening advice is what works for us. We think our techniques will work for you too.

Watch out for those dirty, dirty girls who talk dirt!

SOME GENERAL COMMENT RELATIVE TO HOW TO DO AN EFFECTIVE PAGE OR SUBJECT SEARCH WILL NEED TO BE PUT ON THIS PAGE I WOULD THINK.

Welcome to our online questions and answers blog! It is Country Arbors intent to provide our customers with a complete gardening experience. A critical component of this experience is the ability to find local answers to local gardening questions. Talking Dirt provides this forum. Enjoy…

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The Legend of Onarga was originally written by Bonsall Schroeder, Sales Manager of Onarga Nursery Company, Onarga, Illinois, as the text portion of the companies 1927 Christmas Card. According to A.J. Cultra, owner of the company at the time, the fictional history of Onarga and the Indian princess Onarga was created as a vehicle for giving thanks for the land which had enabled the company’s success.

Over the years fiction has been rewritten into fact whereas today, were you to ask a majority of Onarga residents about the history of their town, they would tell you about the Legend of Onarga, believing it to be fact, unknowing it was a promotional piece developed by Onarga Nursery Company.

The Legend Of Princess Onarga© and all artwork developed for the Christmas card are the sole property of Onarga Nursery Company, Inc. and may not be used. The Legend Of Princess Onarga© may be freely copied and reproduced in the original form but may not be modified. All artwork is proprietary and may not be reproduced in any manner without the expressed permission of Onarga Nursery Company, Inc.

(Back to the Legend of Princess Onarga)

Onarga Nursery Company, Incorporated is located in Onarga, Illinois. They are a wholesale supplier of premium quality landscape material within a 20 State Midwestern marketplace.

The title ‘The Legend Of Onarga©’ and all artwork associated with the concept was created and developed by Onarga Nursery Company, Incorporated and is the sole property of Onarga Nursery Company, Incorporated. It may not be used without their expressed permission. Permission has been granted to Country Arbors Nursery, Inc. to use selected graphics in their development of their marketing programs.

(Back to Our Heritage)

Family owned business, fifth generation nurserymen

Country Arbors Nursery was started in 1987 as a subsidiary of Onarga Nursery Company, Onarga, Illinois. It was then purchased in 1992 by P. Terence Cultra, son and brother of the family which owns Onargan Nursery. The heritage of the Cultra family and their dedication to the nursery industry may be viewed elsewhere under the heading of About The Arbors.

Committed to educating the public on plants and the enjoyment of gardening

Country Arbors currently sponsors television and radio programs for the expressed purpose of enabling homeowners to enjoy gardening to the fullest extent. These programs share information on a wide spectrum of industry information as well as provide question and answer sessions which allow gardeners to have their own, personal gardening questions answered by an expert. These programs are narrated by T. Shane Cultra, a junior partner in the company and son of P. Terence Cultra.

Trained, experienced horticulturalists

Every member of the Country Arbors Family is passionate about horticulture. Each has combined multidisciplinary schooling with dedicated on-site training. So come by with your questions, we’re ready to help.

Seminars, group discussions and private tours

Country Arbors Nursery is a production nursery that specializes in annuals, perennials and deciduous nursery stock. This diversity means that every day of every year there is propagation work being done at Country Arbors. If you are interested in the production side of horticulture, please call us to arrange a personal tour of our production area.

Country Arbors would also be happy to host group discussions or seminars on the horticultural topic of your choice. We currently don’t hold regularly scheduled events, so your call could get the ball rolling.

Our site is a beautiful example of landscape design

At Country Arbors, our sale stock is integrated into 5 acres of idea gardens. They allow you to visualize how a plant might look in the context of your garden. We are proud of these gardens and the diversity of their designs. Feel free to wander and soak up the beauty or ask for a private tour.

We sell plants and gardening supplies

If you’re looking to add a touch of Nature’s Charm© to your garden, we encourage you to visit our garden center. You’ll find an assortment of beautiful, locally grown plants, as well as many gardening accessories that you may not find in the catalogs.

We design and install landscapes

Country Arbors Nursery specializes in unique, customized landscape designs. Our landscape designs are carefully crafted to harmonize with the property and tastes of the owner. Our experienced team can also install the landscape, meaning you benefit from the efficiency and economy of using one provider.

We re-wholesale products to the trade

Country Arbors is a re-wholesaler of nursery products and hardlines to landscapers, garden centers, municipalities and other qualified nursery stock dealers within the local market area. Country Arbors grows all its’ own annuals and perennials, having over 100,000 square feet of greenhouse production area.

A large percentage of the nursery product sold by Country Arbors is produced by Cultra Nurseries, Inc., Onarga, Illinois, a wholly owned subsidiary of Country Arbors which grows for and sells a general line of nursery product to the trade.

Among the great oak trees twinkled the tiny campfires of the Iroquois. It was the time of the Harvest Moon and the Great Spirit had been kind. Never had there been so good a crop of Indian corn, the herds of buffalo roamed in ever increasing numbers over the great plains, the streams abounded in fish, and the Indians were happy.

At the door of the wigwam sat the great chief of the Iroquois and by his side sat his daughter, Onarga, fairest of the Indian maidens. Together they looked out to where the leaves of corn rustled in the gentle breeze, and then to where the moonlight filtered through the branches of the giant Oaks and danced upon the thick, wavy grass.

“Father,” asked the girl, “why does the North Wind rustle like the waves of many waters through the leaves of the Oaks and across the fields of corn?”

“Daughter,” replied the old chief, “The Great Spirit has been kind. He has sent you to the people of the Iroquois and where you step the grass of the fields grow green and there is plenty of feed for the buffalo and they stay with our people, when you touch the corn it bears big ears and there is much food for our tribe, and when you sing the birds of the forests sing with you. The rippling waters of the springs and rivers laugh with joy when they hear your voice and the Great Spirit smiles and is glad.”

“What you hear, Oh Fairest Daughter of the Morning, is not the wind among the trees but the sound of many waters and the dipping of many paddles, it is the sound of The Great Canoe.”

The next morning, when the Sun God climbed above the mighty Oaks, there was a sadness in the camp of the Iroquois, for during the night the soul of Onarga, the Indian maiden, daughter of the great chief, had gone Northward in The Great Canoe to the Happy Hunting Grounds of the Iroquois, the land of the Shawandossee, the home of the White Rabbit.

Each year, when the great fertile plains of the Iroquois are flooded with the pale, shimmering light of the Harvest Moon, the Great Canoe floating on the billows of mist that overhang the rivers, and manned by the spirits of the Iroquois warriors, floats with the North Wind to the faraway hunting grounds from whence it came.

There are some who claim to have seen it passing in the night and in it the form of a beautiful Indian maiden, her left hand raised to Heaven with the palm outward, the Indian sign of benediction and farewell.

Each season the Harvest Moon shines between the mighty Oaks where sleeps Onarga, the little Indian maiden, and on her grave in the still quiet of the night the “shadow things and all the moonlight things come out to play.” Under the great Oaks, where twinkled the camp fires of the Iroquois, there stands the village of Onarga.

The happiness and blessing of the Indian maiden has followed throughout the years and the land of the Iroquois is still the most fertile in all the great plains. The Egyptian Trail, Route 45, runs through the fields of growing trees and flowering shrubs. Many travelers who have passed through these fields and along this trail during the season of the harvest moon, claim to have seen the spirit of Onarga gliding among the flowering shrubs.

We, who carry on the business today, believe that there can be no more noble occupation than that which adds beauty and enchantment to the world’s greatest institution, the American Home, and with this thought in mind we shall hold forever sacred the trust and confidence of our customers and friends.

1865 - The Onarga Nursery Company was founded in 1865 by Robert Blaine Cultra upon his return from the Civil War. He walked on foot through the rural areas and the fledgling communities selling strawberry plants, raspberry plants, and fruit trees. In the tradition of Johnny Appleseed, he tried to trod every dusty path and byway for nearly twenty years. Each year the business grew a little larger and his reputation as a good nurseryman increased.

1895 - The two sons of Robert Blaine Cultra, Archie J. and Harry Blaine, entered into the business. The company began to grow so rapidly that horses and buggies were added to facilitate the covering of a larger area.

1912 - Robert Blaine Cultra died and was interred in the Onarga Cemetery. The business was carried on by his two sons.

1921 - A wholesale nursery was started in Rives, Tennessee in partnership with a third brother Edwin Cultra. This was first called North Star Nursery, and later the name was changed to the “Morning Star Nursery.”

1926 - Harry Blaine Cultra retired from active partnership due to poor health.

1934 - In June, a fire totally destroyed the office and the storage building. The Onarga Nursery Company was at this time the third largest nursery in the United States. It was at this time that Harry Blaine Cultra sold his interest in the business to Archie J. Cultra. A long and valuable partnership had been dissolved.

1945 - Archie J.Cultra retired because of failing health. After fifty years of faithful service, his heart and soul were still with the nursery business. R.R. Cultra, eldest son of A.J. Cultra, now managed the nursery.

1947 - Archie J. Cultra died on August 7, 1947, and thus departed one of the nation’s greatest nurserymen. Along with his brother, Harry B., he had made a strawberry patch into one of the nation’s leading wholesale nurseries. The business now went to the two sons of Archie J., R.R. Cultra and Duane B. Cultra.

1952 - R.R. Cultra sold his interest to Duane B. Cultra, making him majority stock holder and President of the company. A third son, H. W. Cultra, continued on as a landscaping representative.

1963 - In 1963 H. W. Cultra resigned his position as landscaping representative, selling his nursery shares to Duane B. Cultra, in order to devote full time to other business interests.

1971 - Shane and P. Terence Cultra entered the business with their father, this making the fourth generation to actively participate in the Onarga Nursery Company.

1975 - P. Terence Cultra left Onarga Nursery Company to pursue other horticultural interests.

1978 - Specimen Shade Tree Nursery was purchased in Parma, Michigan.

1987 - Country Arbors Nursery was established in Urbana, Illinois.

1992 - P. Terence Cultra purchased 100% ownership of Country Arbors Nursery from his brother Shane Cultra. In doing so he became another Cultra who would seek to establish their own identity and company within the nursery industry.

1994 - Donna M. Cleary joined Country Arbors Nursery as Retail Manager.

1995 – T. Shane Cultra joined Country Arbors Nursery as Landscape Manager. In doing so, Shane became the first fifth generation nurseryman within the Cultra family.

1998 – Donna M. Cultra was promoted to Vice-President, Landscape Division and Shane Cultra was promoted to Vice-President, Retail Division.

2000 – Donna M. Cultra and T. Shane Cultra became equity owners and junior partners in Country Arbors Nursery, Inc.

2004 – The initial development of a Wholesale Production Division which would specialize in field and container production was undertaken.

2004 - Josef C. Cultra joined his father P. Terence Cultra, brother T. Shane Cultra and Donna M. Cultra in Country Arbors Nursery, thus becoming the second fifth generation nurseryman in the business.

2005 – Josef C. Cultra was promoted to Retail Manager. T. Shane Cultra assumed the position of Vice-President/COO of the Retail and Wholesale Divisions. P. Terence Cultra retained the position of Chairman of the Board, President/CEO, and majority stockholder.

2007 – Cultra Nurseries, Inc. was established in Onarga, Illinois as a wholly owned subsidiary of Country Arbors Nursery, Inc. This 60 acre acquisition represents the first step of the final stage of the vision of P. Terence Cultra to establish a vertically integrated nursery operation which both produced the product and marketed it to the end user.

A Country Arbors Gift Certificate is the perfect gift for any gardener.

Certificates for any amount can be purchased in store or over the phone and can be redeemed up to one year from issuance.

Call Julie at 217-367-1072, extension 11. She’ll mail the certificate to you, or directly to your cherished friend or family member.

January 3, 2008 through March 23, 2008

• Monday through Friday: 9:00am - 4:30pm
• Saturday: closed
• Sunday: closed

March 24, 2008 through April 6, 2008

• Monday through Friday: 8:00am - 6:00pm
• Saturday: 9:00am - 5:00pm
• Sunday: closed

April 7, 2008 through November 2, 2008

• Monday through Friday: 8:00am - 6:00pm
• Saturday: 9:00am - 5:00pm
• Sunday: 10:00am - 4:00pm
• Closed Independence Day - July 4, 2008
• Closed Labor Day - September 1, 2008

November 3, 2008 through November 22, 2008

• Monday through Friday: 8:00am - 5:00pm
• Saturday: 8:00am - 4:00pm
• Sunday: closed

November 23, 2008 through December 21, 2008

• Monday through Friday: 8:00am - 5:00pm
• Saturday: closed
• Sunday: closed

• Closed Thanksgiving Day - November 27 & 28, 2008

December 22, 2008 through January 6, 2009: closed

2008 Landscape Division Schedule

January 6, 2008 through December 21, 2008

• Monday through Friday: 8:00am - 5:00pm
• Saturday: by appointment
• Sunday: closed

Country Arbors Nursery is on East Windsor Road, East of Rt. 130.

For local residents: Go South To Windsor, turn left and go East.

For individuals not from Champaign-Urbana the easiest way is:

• Get on Interstate 74 and get off at the University Exit.
• It only goes one way, east. Go to the first stoplight.
• This is the Intersection of Route 150 and Route 130. Turn left.
• Follow the road until Route 130 breaks off the the south (right)
• Turn right on Route 130 (South) until you reach Windsor Road.
• Turn left (East) on Windsor Road. We’re 1.5 miles further.

It’s easy, but if in distress, call Shane at 367-1072. He’ll help.

If you’d like to set up an appointment, preorder plants, or just need some information, please contact us below.

Plant Installation

In landscaping, a design is only as good as its installation.

At Country Arbors, we take proper installation seriously.

Our reliability, attention to detail and old fashioned know-how ensure that every design lives up to its potential, year after beautiful year.

Previous: Landscape Design

Next: Landscaping

Concepts in Creativity

A good design transcends style, is ageless and will outlast time. Good design begins with a study of the natural conditions of the site and the architectural style of the house, then guiding changes so that the end result is pleasing and in harmony with the natural conditions. Without a design the opportunity to accomplish this most likely will be missed.

Quality landscaping in itself can be accomplished at a reasonable expense. However, as the scope of the project increases, the more important the decision will become as to the level and type of training your designer of choice has. Projects such as the one shown above require a very high level of training, experience and expertise to properly design and install.

The basic design philosophy of Country Arbors Nursery is that we always remain sensitive to the needs of the property, residence and customer when establishing the level of design for any given project, then have the appropriate resources available to ensure our valued customer is provided with an effective, unique solution which meets their specific needs. Regardless of the level of the solution, it should represent the best price to value relationship available within our market.

Donna M. Cultra and Josef C. Cultra are our primary designers and direct the design of other teammembers to insure all designs meet our standards for excellence.

We look forward to discussing any upcoming landscaping requirements which you might have. If you would like more information on our company please contact or eMail us. We look forward to serving you.

Previous: Design Styles

Next: Installing Plants

Concepts in Creativity

Country Arbors Nursery is well known for its ability to comfortably design and install a multitude of various, extremely different styles. We are best known for our unique, modern contemporary designs, however we are also well known for our Water Gardens, Perennial Gardens, and our Japanese style Gardens. When the opportunity is present, formal gardens are a personal favorite.

As we are nurserymen first and foremost, we know our plants and design with special consideration as to the balance of size, color, shape, form and seasonal characteristics of the plants chosen for each given design. This consideration will insure your landscape will be one which you can expand and grow upon for many years to come without having to incur the cost of moving or replacing plants which were improperly selected.

Nature’s Charm© is wide and wondrous, and we at Country Arbors make every attempt to see each project we install reflects the proper elements of design necessary to bring forth the unique opportunity of the given situation. Whether you are looking for a company to install landscaping or looking for ideas, we appreciate the opportunity to assist you in arriving at a satisfactory solution to your personal landscaping needs. Please contact us to to further discuss the solutions possible for your specific needs.

Previous: Stone Features

Next: Landscape Design

Creative Stone Use

Stone has a timeless aesthetic.

Why not add its permanence to your landscape with a stately, enduring feature installed with care by Country Arbors.

Whether it’s a patio, walkway, or decorative wall of any style, Country Arbors will design a feature you’ll be glad to have stick around.

Previous: Water Features

Next: Design Styles

Water Intallations

Water installations can be a soothing, pleasurable addition to any landscape.

Our innovative, personal designs range from ponds, to waterfalls to reflecting pools.

Whatever your choice, water installations provide relaxation and uncommon beauty with minimal maintenance.

Be sure to ask about our extensive line of aquatic plants, our expertise can keep your installation lush, green and blooming.

Previous: Lighting Design

Next: Stone Features

Landscape Lighting

With tasteful and dramatic lighting, your garden can be enjoyed after sunset.

Country Arbor’s is a specialist in lighting design.

Our low voltage lighting installations emphasize safety and subtlety with dramatic results.

Come join us in this next frontier of landscape design. We’ll help your garden find new beauty under the stars.

Previous: Landscaping

Next: Water Features

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